When to Change Guitar Strings: Signs, Timing and Gauges
Changing guitar strings means swapping out strings that have lost their tone and stopped holding tune. Over time, sweat and oil from your fingers build up, the metal fatigues and starts to corrode. There's no fixed schedule. It depends on how much you play, which strings you use and where the guitar lives.
At rehearsal, the guitar just won't sound bright. You turn up the treble, swap a pedal, still nothing. Then you check your tuning between songs and the two low strings have dropped again. Most of the time the problem isn't the amp or the pedal. It's the same set of strings that's been on there for months.
How can you tell your guitar strings need changing?
The strings will tell you. If you notice one or more of these, it's time:
- Dull tone: notes die quickly, the highs are gone, chords sound muddy.
- Won't stay in tune: you're reaching for the tuner after every song, and a string you just tuned drifts again.
- Octaves are off: the open string is in tune, but the same note at the 12th fret isn't.
- Discoloration: dark patches, dullness or rust spots, especially over the frets you play most.
- They feel wrong: sliding a finger along the string feels rough or sticky, and there's gunk under the windings of the wound strings.
If only one string snaps, it's tempting to replace just that one. Fine for now, but the new string will sound noticeably brighter than the rest and the set won't match. If the others are old too, swap the whole set when you get the chance. That's also why a full spare set in your bag beats a single string.
The difference is easiest to hear right after a restring. Put the new set next to your memory of the old one and you realize how long you've been playing with a dull sound.
How often should you change guitar strings?
There's no single answer. String makers themselves say to go by sound, not by the calendar: if your strings don't sound full anymore and won't hold their tuning, change them. Still, here's a rough guide based on how much you play:
| How you play | Rough interval |
|---|---|
| Daily practice, gigging regularly | Every few weeks, or before every important show |
| A few hours a week | Every few months |
| Now and then | When tone and tuning go, sometimes once a year |
Treat these as a starting point, not a rule. Your own ears are the best gauge. Jot down the day you restring, and next time you notice the sound starting to drop off, you'll know your own interval. If your hands sweat a lot, you'll kill strings faster. A guitar kept in a damp room rusts its strings sooner. Coated strings, with their thin protective layer, usually last longer.
When should you change strings before a gig?
Not on the day. New strings stretch for the first few hours and keep going flat. You'll end up retuning between every song on stage.
The safe bet is a day or two before the show. Once they're on, gently pull each string to stretch it, tune up, stretch again. Then play for a few hours. Once the strings settle, the tuning settles too. String makers also recommend giving new strings a few hours to a day of playing to bed in.
If you gig a lot, don't wait until a string is about to snap. A string breaking mid-show wrecks the song and the flow of the set. And put a spare set in your bag. We listed everything that goes in the gig bag in our first gig checklist.
How do you pick string gauge and material?
String sets are named after the thickest and thinnest string. A "10-46" set means the high E is .010 inches and the low E is .046 inches.
- Lighter gauge: easier to fret and bend, less tiring for your fingers. Slightly thinner sound, and a bit easier to knock out of tune.
- Heavier gauge: fuller tone, more sustain, holds tuning better. Takes more strength to play.
On electric, 9-42 and 10-46 are the most common sets. On acoustic, 12-53 "lights" are a common place to start. For material, electric strings are usually nickel-plated steel. On acoustic, 80/20 bronze sounds brighter and phosphor bronze sounds warmer.
If you make a big jump in gauge, the guitar's setup can change. Different tension means the neck bends slightly, and the strings end up closer to or further from the frets. It's worth getting the setup checked after a change like that.
The easiest way to find the right set is to try one. Play it for a few weeks and note how it feels and sounds. If you play in a band, you'll hear the difference best at rehearsal, sitting in the mix with everyone else.
Is it different for acoustic, electric and bass?
Same basic idea, but each has its quirks.
- Acoustic: the sound comes straight from the body, so worn strings show up fastest here. Most acoustics hold the strings with bridge pins. Be careful not to damage the bridge when you pull them.
- Electric: wear is harder to hear, since the amp and effects cover for it. Tuning and intonation problems usually show up first. On guitars with a tremolo bridge, changing one string at a time keeps things balanced.
- Bass: bass strings generally last longer than guitar strings and cost more. Some bassists actually prefer the soft, round sound of old strings.
- Classical: these use nylon strings. Never put steel strings on a classical guitar, the tension can damage the neck and bridge.
How do you make strings last longer?
A few small habits make a real difference:
- Wash your hands before you play. Sweat and oil are what kill strings most.
- Wipe the strings down with a dry cloth after playing, underneath too.
- Don't leave the guitar somewhere damp, or next to a radiator or window.
- If you won't be playing for a while, keep it in its case or gig bag.
One more thing: store your spare set properly. Strings in a sealed pack keep for a long time, but an open pack, or one that's been sitting damp at the bottom of a bag, can age before it's even on the guitar. Keep the spare set sealed, in a dry pocket.
A restring is also the best time to clean the fretboard. With all the strings off, getting the grime out from between the frets is much easier. If you use a capo, check your tuning again with it on during your first practice on the new set. A capo pushes the strings onto the fret and can pull them slightly sharp, especially before new strings have settled. Our capo guide covers how to put one on with as little tuning trouble as possible.
Once the new set is on and you play through your chords again, you'll notice how clean a properly fretted chord actually sounds. If you want to brush up on chord charts, our guide to reading chords has you covered.